Pashmina: The Soft Gold of Kashmir – ART
& CULTURE
NEWS: Pashmina,
known as "soft gold," has represented luxury and prestige since the
Mughal era. In today's knowledge nugget, learn about its legacy.
WHAT’S IN
THE NEWS?
Cultural
and Historical Significance
- Pashmina
has been a luxury symbol since the Mughal era, widely used in ceremonial
shawls and heirlooms.
- During the
Mughal period, Pashmina shawls were highly prized and adorned by royalty
and aristocrats.
- They were
often gifted to foreign dignitaries as a mark of prestige and luxury.
- Even today,
Pashmina shawls are considered a status symbol and are often used in
weddings and religious ceremonies.
- It
represents exceptional craftsmanship and the rich heritage of Kashmir.
- The weaving of
Pashmina is deeply rooted in Kashmiri culture, with artisans passing down
the skill through generations.
- The intricate
patterns and delicate embroidery on Pashmina shawls reflect the artistic
heritage of the region.
- The tradition
of Pashmina weaving is a vital part of Kashmir’s identity and economic
livelihood.
Origin and
Characteristics
- Pashmina,
also known as Cashmere wool, is globally renowned for its softness,
warmth, and durability.
- Pashmina is a
premium-grade wool that stands out for its extremely fine and soft
texture.
- It is widely
recognized and valued in international luxury markets, especially in
Europe and the Middle East.
- Pashmina
shawls, scarves, and garments are known to last for decades if maintained
properly.
- It is
derived from the under fleece (pashmn) of the Chyangra (Capra Hircus)
mountain goat, found at altitudes of 12,000 feet in the Himalayas.
- The wool comes
from the inner coat of the Capra Hircus goat, which grows as an
insulating layer to protect the animal from extreme cold.
- The goats are
primarily found in Ladakh, Tibet, Nepal, and parts of Mongolia.
- The fleece is
collected through a natural shedding process, making it an ethical and
sustainable source of wool.
- The
wool has high thermal conductivity, making it an excellent insulator for winter
wear.
- Pashmina
fibers trap body heat while remaining lightweight, providing superior
warmth without bulk.
- This makes
Pashmina an ideal choice for cold climates, offering comfort while
maintaining breathability.
- The natural
fiber also adapts to temperature changes, keeping the wearer warm in cold
conditions and cool in mild weather.
Traditional
Craftsmanship
- The
art of making Pashmina has been part of Himalayan culture for centuries,
with many families engaged in the craft for generations.
- Weaving
Pashmina is a time-honored tradition in Kashmir, passed down from master
artisans to apprentices.
- Many families
specialize in different stages of the process, from spinning the wool to
dyeing and weaving.
- The craft
supports thousands of artisans, preserving not just a livelihood but a
cultural legacy.
- The
process includes hand-combing, spinning, weaving, and dyeing, taking weeks
or even months.
- The raw wool
is carefully combed by hand to separate the fine fibers from coarser
hair.
- Spinning is
done manually on a traditional wooden spinning wheel (Charkha) to ensure
the yarn remains delicate.
- Dyeing is
performed using natural or organic colors to maintain the fabric’s purity
and aesthetic appeal.
- Weaving
is done on traditional handlooms, requiring immense skill and patience.
- Unlike
machine-made fabrics, authentic Pashmina is woven on handlooms, making
each piece unique.
- The process
demands precision, as the delicate fibers can easily break if mishandled.
- Some intricate
designs require months of labor, making every shawl a masterpiece of
craftsmanship.
Geographical
Indication (GI) Tag for Pashmina
- Kashmir’s
Pashmina has received a GI tag due to its unique traditional
craftsmanship.
- The Geographical
Indication (GI) tag ensures that only authentic Kashmiri Pashmina is
marketed under this name.
- This prevents
counterfeit or machine-made shawls from being sold as genuine Pashmina.
- The tag
highlights the importance of preserving traditional weaving techniques
and protecting artisan communities.
- This
recognition helps preserve the authenticity of the craft and protect local
artisans.
- The GI tag
gives legal protection to Kashmiri artisans against imitation products.
- It promotes
fair trade by ensuring that artisans receive a fair price for their
craftsmanship.
- It also boosts
international recognition and demand for authentic Pashmina products.
Geographical
Indication (GI) & Intellectual Property Rights in Handicrafts
1. Legal
Framework in India
- India
enacted the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration &
Protection) Act, 1999, effective from September 15, 2003.
- This law
provides a legal framework for protecting products that have a unique
geographical origin.
- It helps
prevent unauthorized usage of traditional names and products in the
market.
- The Act came
into effect to ensure Indian products like Darjeeling Tea and Pashmina
remain exclusive to their regions of origin.
2.
Benefits of GI Registration
- Prevents
unauthorized use of the product name.
- Only certified
manufacturers and artisans can sell products under a registered GI tag.
- This protects
local producers from exploitation and prevents cheap imitations from
entering the market.
- Grants
legal protection for 10 years (renewable).
- The GI status
remains valid for a decade and can be renewed indefinitely.
- This allows
continued protection and recognition of traditional crafts.
- Promotes
exports and enhances the product’s market value.
- Products with
GI tags are often seen as premium, increasing their market demand.
- The
certification boosts international sales by assuring consumers of
authenticity.
Major
GI-Tagged Products in 2024
1.
Tirupati Laddu (Andhra Pradesh)
- GI-tagged in 2009, renewed in 2018
(valid till 2028).
- Recently involved in a controversy regarding
the alleged adulteration of ghee used in its preparation.
2.
Thanjavur Veena (Tamil Nadu)
- Became India’s first musical instrument
to receive a GI tag.
- Recognized for its craftsmanship and deep
cultural association with Carnatic music.
3. Majuli
Masks & Majuli Manuscript Paintings (Assam)
- Awarded a GI tag on March 4, 2024.
- Handmade masks are traditionally used in Bhaona,
religious theatre performances in Assam.
4. Rupa
Tarakasi (Silver Filigree of Cuttack, Odisha)
- A centuries-old silver filigree craft, known
for intricate designs.
- The craft involves transforming silver bricks
into thin wires for making jewelry and ornaments.
5.
Similipal Kai Chutney (Odisha)
- A chutney made from red weaver ants,
consumed by tribal communities in Mayurbhanj.
- Rich in essential nutrients like protein, iron,
and vitamin B-12.
6. Koraput
Kala Jeera Rice (Odisha)
- Also known as the ‘Prince of Rice’, it
has been preserved by tribal farmers for 1,000 years.
- Recognized for its aroma, texture, and health
benefits.
7.
Kapdaganda Shawl (Odisha)
- Woven by the Dongria Kondh tribe of the
Niyamgiri Hills.
- Reflects the rich tribal heritage and culture.
8. Odisha
Khajuri Guda (Date Palm Jaggery, Odisha)
- A traditional organic sweetener
extracted from date palm trees.
- Recognized for its unique taste and natural
preparation method.
9.
Dhenkanal Magji (Odisha)
- A buffalo milk cheese-based sweet,
distinct in taste, texture, and nutritional value.
Source: https://indianexpress.com/article/upsc-current-affairs/upsc-essentials/knowledge-nugget-why-is-pashmina-the-soft-gold-important-for-the-upsc-prelims-2025-9807713/